Visiting an onsen in Japan is an experience that everyone should try at least once — and fortunately, the etiquette and rules are generally the same for LGBTQ+ people as they are for anyone else. Your sexuality will rarely make a difference, and in general, it shouldn’t even come up as an issue.
For most cisgender gay, lesbian, and bisexual people, things are pretty straightforward: you can use the men’s or women’s bath that corresponds to your gender, just like other guests. For transgender and non-binary people, however, there are some extra things to consider, particularly when it comes to gender-separated baths and changing areas.
Private baths can also be a useful option if you want more privacy, would rather avoid a gender-separated bath, have tattoos, or simply want to enjoy the onsen with your partner.
In this article, we’ll go through the do’s and don’ts of onsen, what options are available, and what you should keep in mind as an LGBTQ+ bather.
But before we dip our toes into the details, there is one thing you should keep in mind: onsen are not like your typical gay sauna or cruising spot. Do 違う go into a typical onsen looking for anything steamier than the water!
How Gender-Separated Onsen Work
Most onsen in Japan today have separate baths for men and women, although there are still some mixed-gender (konyoku) onsen, as discussed below.
There aren’t any widespread rules or practices relating to the sexuality of visitors. A cisgender gay couple can use the men’s bath, and a cisgender lesbian couple can use the women’s bath. There are no additional rules for same-sex couples — and, obviously, it would be incredibly difficult to police entry based on sexuality anyway.
For transgender and non-binary people, things can be more complicated. The Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare (MHLW) provides technical guidance to help public bathing facilities create their policies. Its guidance says that the distinction between men and women should be determined by physical characteristics.
This guidance does not carry legal force, and local ordinances and the rules of individual onsen may differ. In practice, that means you shouldn’t assume that every onsen will have the same policy for transgender or non-binary guests.
If you are unsure which bath you can use, it is worth checking with the individual facility before you visit. You may also prefer to avoid the issue altogether by booking a private bath.
When a Private Bath Makes More Sense
A private bath isn’t required simply because you’re LGBTQ+. However, there are several reasons why you might prefer one.
The most obvious relates to what we’ve just covered. Transgender and non-binary people who would feel uncomfortable using either the men’s or women’s bath may find that a private bath offers greater peace of mind.
Cisgender queer couples may also prefer a private bath for a more romantic time together. While I’m sure that you remember from the introduction that onsen are not cruising spots, even kissing and other forms of intimacy are not typically welcome. This includes intimacy between men and women in mixed-gender onsen. So if you want to hold your partner in the hot spring water, a private bath is the way to go.
There’s also the fact that in almost all onsen in Japan, you are required to be naked to bathe. If you’re uncomfortable being nude around strangers, a private bath offers a way to enjoy the onsen without that added stress.
Finally, tattoos can be an issue. Onsen have historically had strict rules against allowing people with tattoos to enter, although policies are becoming more varied. A private bath may be an option if you’re inked, but you should still check the facility’s tattoo policy before booking.
When looking to reserve a private bath, you will usually find two terms used in Japan. The first is kazoku-buro (家族風呂), which means “family bath,” and the second is 樫切風呂 (貸切風呂), which is a private bath that can be rented for a specific window of time.
Although the names are different, 樫切風呂 そして kazoku-buro significantly overlap in practical use. You should, however, check with the onsen before you reserve one to find out about the length of the bath, minimum and maximum occupancy, and other rules.
These also differ from the in-room baths you may have if you are staying at a more high-end resort or 旅館, which, by virtue of their privacy, can be enjoyed without using a gender-separated public bath. If you specifically want an actual hot-spring bath, however, check that the bath uses onsen water.
You may also encounter the term konyoku (混浴), which means “mixed bath.” As the name suggests, this is a bath where men and women can bathe together.
Be aware, though, that konyoku does not necessarily mean that the entire facility is gender-neutral. The changing rooms and other facilities may still be strictly separated by gender. If this matters to you, check the facility’s policies before making a reservation.
You should also be aware that the presence of private baths does not automatically mean that an onsen is LGBTQ+ friendly. A private bath simply gives you more privacy, so it is still worth checking the policies of the individual property.
Why not explore your options at known onsen towns, such as Hakone または 別府?
What to Check Before You Book
With all this in mind, there are a few things you may want to ask before visiting a particular onsen or making a booking. Even if an onsen advertises itself as LGBTQ+ friendly, it’s worth making sure that the facilities actually suit your particular needs.
While not a complete list, you may want to consider the following:
- Does the property actually offer a private or reservable bath?
- Must it be booked in advance?
- Is it available to overnight guests only, day visitors only, or both?
- Does the reservation give the party exclusive use of the bathing space?
- Are the changing and washing areas also private?
- If a room has a bath, is it actually supplied with onsen water?
- What is the tattoo policy?
- If relevant, what are the facility’s policies for transgender or non-binary guests?
Useful Japanese Questions
Here are a few questions you may find useful when making your inquiries:
- 貸切風呂はありますか？ (Kashikiri-buro wa arimasu ka?) — “Do you have a private/reservable bath?”
- 貸切風呂は予約が必要ですか？ (Kashikiri-buro wa yoyaku ga hitsuyō desu ka?) — “Do I need to reserve the private bath?”
- 貸切風呂は何名まで利用できますか？ (Kashikiri-buro wa nanmei made riyō dekimasu ka?) — “How many people can use the private bath?”
JGG’s Template
Please find below a template to send to the onsen you are looking at. Feel free to add or delete, according to your circumstances.
💡 To Whom It May Concern,
Hello. I am considering visiting your establishment on [date] for a [stay/day visit]. Could you confirm whether [name of bath/a private bath] can be reserved for [number] adults?
Could you please also let me know if the bath uses onsen water, whether tattoos are permitted, how I can make reservations, what the fee or time limits are, and whether the changing area is private.
If possible, we would prefer an option without a gender-separated changing space.
💡 ご担当者様
お世話になっております。[日付]に[宿泊／日帰り]での利用を検討しております。大人[人数]名で[お風呂の名称／貸切風呂]を予約できるか、ご確認いただけますでしょうか。
あわせて、以下の点についても教えていただけますと幸いです：温泉を使用しているか、タトゥー（入れ墨）は許可されているか、予約方法、料金や利用時間の制限、そして脱衣所が個室（プライベートな空間）になっているかどうか。
可能であれば、男女別の脱衣所ではないタイプを希望しております。
Essential Onsen Etiquette
Finally, let’s go over a few things anyone and everyone needs to know when visiting an onsen.
First, as we’ve mentioned, bathing in an onsen will almost always require you to be nude, and it is extremely unusual for onsen to make exceptions. There are a few onsen, such as Takaragawa Onsen in Gunma, where bathing garments are required because it is a mixed-gender onsen, but these are rare.
Make sure that you wash yourself all over before getting into the bath. Onsen are places for relaxing, and the water is shared. Water for washing beforehand is provided, and soap and shampoo are often free, as well. Rinse thoroughly after washing: getting soap in the bath is a big faux pas.
As onsen are places for relaxing, keep your voice down when talking to others.
Many bathers use a small towel, which is also sometimes provided by the onsen, to wipe away excess water or cover their genitals when not in the bath. However, you should never put this towel in the water. Long hair should also be kept out of the water, and you shouldn’t dunk your head under.
Using phones and cameras in the changing areas is usually forbidden.
Always check the tattoo policy before entering.
Visiting an onsen is a fun experience that can be the highlight of a trip. Finding the right onsen for your needs will make your bathing experience all the better.
For more Japan travel tips, check out この記事!
