When people think of Japan’s second city, most people will immediately think that Osaka, in the Kansai region, is Tokyo’s greatest rival; or that Kyoto, with its centuries-old architecture and history as Japan’s ancient capital, would take the second spot. But Yokohama, the port town right next to Tokyo, is actually the second most populous city in Japan, and its role as a gateway to the outside world has meant it played a huge role in shaping Japan from the Meiji era onwards.
Today, it is a thriving, bustling city with many things to see and do. Only a short train ride from Tokyo itself, LGBTQ+ tourists who want to see a little bit of a different flavor to the nation’s capital will find plenty here to enjoy.
Chinatown
Yokohama boasts the largest Chinatown in Japan, with over 250 shops and restaurants serving visitors and the 4,000-strong residents, the majority of whom are ethnically Chinese. Given their closeness both geographically and historically, it is no surprise that Chinese restaurants can be found in almost any town in Japan (indeed, ramen, a beloved Japanese staple, is of Chinese origin). That being said, Yokohama’s Chinatown is the place to get authentic and delicious cuisine from the Middle Kingdom.
There are also sites to visit that show off the beauty of Chinese architecture, such as the Ma Zu Miao temple, which was opened in 2006 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Chinatown. Choyomon Gate, on the east side of Chinatown, is another gorgeous piece of architecture, and is particularly beautiful when it is lit up in the evening.
Yokohama Trick Art Museum
Art galleries aren’t all portraits or landscapes: at Trick Art Museum, the focus is on optical illusions — and you can even take part as the star. A terrific place to grab some pictures with your partner, friends, and family, it is home to images and exhibits that will make you question your perspective and boggle the mind. It describes itself as a home for “art from an alternative reality,” and it certainly lives up to that title.
From 2D images that look so three dimensional that you could swear you can reach behind them, to pieces of art that seem to actually come to life (remember when Gregory Peck pretended to get his hand bitten off in Roman Holiday? The Bocca della Verità here actually WILL bite your hand!), this museum will give you a new experience in every room. It also has new events and exhibits regularly, so there’s plenty of reason to go again!
Yokohama Cosmo World
Like amusement parks? Like being by the sea? Then you’ll love Yokohama Cosmo World, where thrills and joys sit right on Yokohama Bay. Thrill seekers can get their fill with Diving Coaster Vanish, a rollercoaster that appears to disappear into the water, as spray makes it seem to onlookers as though you’ve fallen in with a splash. Or perhaps you would prefer the Spinning Coaster, a ride atop a building where the car rotates as it zooms along the tracks.
But the crown jewel of Yokohama Cosmo World is surely the Cosmo Clock21. This is a gigantic, 112 meter high ferris wheel, that takes fifteen minutes to go all the way around. Visit in the day for a panoramic view of the city, or go at night to see the lights below twinkle like the stars above. Either way, it makes for a romantic time with your partner.
Entry to the park is free, though the attractions themselves charge various amounts, depending on the ride. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Kirin Brewery Yokohama
Many of us enjoy a cold beer at the end of a long day, and Kirin Ichiban is one of Japan’s best-loved and most delicious lagers. But where does it come from? How does it get made? Come to the Yokohama Brewery to find out!
While you’re here, you can see how the beer you order from the bar or pick up from the conbini is made. You can even touch, smell, and even taste the hops and malt before they’re added to the mixture. The bitterness is really something to remember! After that, you’ll be given a tour to see how the mashing, fermentation, and storage is handled, so you can see at each stage of the process how the overwhelming flavors you experienced at the start of the process become the smoother, subtle taste and fragrances you’re used to. And then, to finish off, you can taste a variety of the beers that Kirin has to offer — and for anyone driving, non-alcoholic alternatives are provided.
LGBTQ+ Bars
If visiting Kirin Brewery was a nice warm-up, you’ll be thrilled to learn that Yokohama also has number of excellent bars that cater to LGBTQ+ people. The best known among them is arguably Bar BE★ST, which goes to great lengths to give its LGBTQ+ customers a safe space. Straight people pay more for drinks, and are not even allowed into the bar without a referral from a third party bar or being accompanied by an LGBTQ+ friend. But if you can gain entry, you’ll be greeted by warm, friendly staff, and a happy crowd who will be eager to hear you sing karaoke.
Bar 1or8 is another Yokohama mainstay, with guests praising the friendliness of the Mama-san, Yoshio, and the other handsome bar staff. Although the staff don’t speak English, foreign visitors report that through gestures and other informal communication, they were made to feel welcome and relaxed. An easy recommendation for anyone who fancies a chilled-out evening.
Final Thoughts
Though it isn’t too fr from Tokyo, Yokohama offers a wealth of things that the beloved capital does not. And given its proximity, and its history of welcoming the new and the different, Yokohama should be on the list of any LGBTQ+ visitors to Japan.