The most populous city of Japan’s rugged island of Shikoku, Matsuyama in Ehime prefecture is an utterly charming city, bursting with character, things to do and delicious foods to eat. Though smaller than many of Japan’s larger cities, it is nevertheless a welcoming place for anyone who wants to feel as though they have stepped into a piece of Japanese history — or into the pages of a novel.
Here are some of the best places for LGBTQ+ tourists to visit in this city straight out of a fairytale.
Matsuyama Castle
Originally built in 1603, Matsuyama Castle is one of only twelve castles in Japan that has retained its original tenshu, or central tower. In this sense, it could be considered a peer or even sister to the famous Himeji Castle, as both were built in the same period using the same style.
Today, visitors who venture up the hill to the castle top can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city and its surrounds — an especially wonderful sight during the spring sakura season. And don’t worry — even though the hill up to the keep is a steep one, there are cable cars to get you to the top in comfort and style. Or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the Ninomaru Garden at the southern base of the hill. Formerly the second line of defense against encroachers, now it is an example of Japanese horticultural prowess.
Dogo Onsen
Did you like Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away? Have you ever wanted to visit the bathhouse that Chihiro worked in? Well you can — and you don’t even have to give up your name to do so! Dogo Onsen was the direct inspiration for the focal point of the film, and is a beautifully preserved example of nineteenth century Japanese architecture and bathing.
The baths are gender-segregated, and are divided into the larger Kami no Yu (Bath of the Gods) and the smaller, but more esteemed Tama no Yu (Bathe of the Spirits). Visitors can also take a tour of Yushinden, an extension of the bath built in 1899 for the exclusive use of the Imperial Family, including a bath and toilet for the exclusive use of the Emperor.
The Botchan Train
Matsuyama was the adopted home of acclaimed novelist Natsume Soseki, and serves as the seminal semi-autobiographical novel Botchan. In the novel, the protagonist is an unenthusiastic teacher who doesn’t take well to educating his students, and it is today beloved by people of all ages as a masterpiece. And as you walk the streets that Natsume and his eponymous hero Botchan walked, you can also enjoy the same train ride they did. Well, sort of.
The Botchan Train is a diesel-powered replica of the trains that took passengers to and fro in the city during the turn of the century. And even those who aren’t locomotive-heads will get a kick out of how small the “matchbox” train. Even at the time, it was remarked on as being a small train that ferries people very short distances, and visitors today can get the same cramped but cute experience. Even seeing the trains change direction is a delight: the driver and conductor get out of the engine, and turn it around on the tracks by hand!
LGBTQ+ Bars
As Shikoku’s biggest city, this is the best place on the island to find bars specifically for LGBTQ+ folx. One such bar is the Flock Cafe, a mixed bar that is strict about catering to sexual minorities. Cisgender heterosexual people are not permitted entry unless they are accompanied by someone LGBTQ+ — and even then they could be turned away. It has a regular lesbian only night, and is a great place to try out a wide selection of cocktails and mocktails.
There’s also Bri Bri Bar, which similarly doesn’t allow straight people entry without an approval from a member of the LGBTQ+ community in good standing. It often hosts events, including drag parties and seasonal gatherings for special times like Halloween or Christmas, and so it attracts a younger crowd.
In Summary
Matsuyama is a real hidden gem for visitors to Japan. With fun LGBTQ+ bars, historical landmarks, and even cute trains, it really puts the chic in Shokoku.
