Shinjuku Nichome, like many places in Japan — and across the world — is in a state of consistent and constant change. Even in the past five years, as Tokyo (kind of) hosted the Olympics, many places have, in one sense or another, “shaped up.” This means that certain things that used to appeal to tourists and residents about Japanese bars have since been forbidden. But if you know where to look, you can still find a little bit of old-fashion.
One such place is Friends, a bar in Nichome that is modern, but retains some of that Showa-era charm. Let me talk you through a terrific bar you can visit even if it hasn’t been your day, your week, your month, or even your year.
The Vibe
One of the first things to know about the bar is that it is one of Nichome’s underground bars — and I mean that literally. It is next to SM Yamato, but you need to descend a flight of stairs to get inside, meaning it is not very accessible for those with mobility issues.
Once you get inside, you need to pay ¥2,000 per person as an entry fee, but this does come with a free drink. One thing that may surprise many foreign guests (whether it is in a good way or a negative way) is that tables come with ashtrays, and many of the regulars who visit the bar smoke.
Smoking in Japanese bars has been on a slow but steady decline since 2020, so for those who like to puff, it can be something of a fun, almost retro experience. For anyone who doesn’t like the smell, however, it can be a little overpowering. Because so many people who drink here also smoke, it can be quite thick, meaning that this might not be the best bar for you if you have sensitive lungs.
Drinking and Singing with the Staff
Known for its charming Mama-san, Friends’ bartenders will often sit with the guests at their table and talk with them through the night. As one may expect from a bar named Friends, all of the staff are extremely welcoming and a lot of fun to talk to.
Not only that, but Friends is also a karaoke bar! As part of your entry fee, you can sing your socks off for free (though you need to do so in front of the other guests, of course). But, with multiple microphones, you don’t have to sing alone, but with your friends, other guests, or your helpful hosts!
Another thing that sets this bar apart from others is that it is highly welcoming to Chinese speakers and Chinese people. When I visited, I was struck immediately by the songs being sung being entirely in Chinese. It was a very different and very cool change from a lot of other karaoke bars in Nichome — or, indeed, in Tokyo.
The drinks themselves, each priced at ¥800, are tasty mixers (or beer, if you’re into something a little less stylish). This is a pretty good price for Nichome: especially at the time of writing, as the value of the yen is low against the dollar, making it a great deal for visitors.
So, to make new friends, where better to go than Friends? See you there soon! 下次再见!
