Nichome Dining Guide: The Best Izakaya and Restaurants

Tobias Waters

Stomach Starting to Rumble? No Need to Grumble!

Nichome, the gay capital of Tokyo, is proud of being known far and wide for its energetic nightlife, with late closings, loud music, and an abundance of bars to drink booze until you can imbibe no more. But what do you do when you’re not thirsty? When instead of beer, your belly begs for a beef burger?

Well, luckily, Nichome has a lot more options for eating than grabbing a rice ball from the nearest conbini. So, to help you decide where to go for a light meal or a sit-down dinner date, JGG is proud to present this guide of restaurants and izakaya, both recommended by locals and those that are actively pro-LGBTQ+.

What is an Izakaya

Izakaya are small, intimate watering holes that also serve a variety of food in small portions. This makes them an excellent choice for anyone just looking for a small bite, but it also means that ordering several dishes to share with friends, adding to the convivial atmosphere that izakaya promote. 

Izakaya are very similar to pubs in the UK or saloons in the US. They are well known as a place to drink, and many will have regulars who come every week – or even every day. The biggest difference is that izakaya are just as well known for their food as their alcohol, and they also tend to be much smaller than a pub or bar, often seating only five to six people. Though this prohibits large groups, the close quarters and easy liquor make for friendly, lively conversations.

The Best Izakaya & Restaurants in Shinjuku Nichome

LGBTQ+ Friendly Dinner Spots

Alamas Cafe

One of the most popular eating spots in Nichome, Alamas Cafe is smack-dab in the middle of Tokyo’s gay capital, making it the perfect hub for meeting and eating before hitting the town.

It serves a wide range of Mexican food, but the tacos are where it really shines. “We offer chicken and pork for meat eaters, shrimp for those who prefer seafood, and vegetarian for anyone who doesn’t eat meat at all,” says one employee. “And since they’re inexpensive, you can mix and match them, tapas-style.”

The staff themselves are friendly and helpful, and give great advice for spending time in Nichome – one of which is to try their mojito, made with fresh mint to make them extra refreshing.

Alamas Cafe

Shinjuku Ni-ChomeTokyoSunday: 3:00 PM - 12:00 AM, Monday - Thursday: 6:00 PM - 2:00 AM, Friday & Saturday: 6:00 PM - 5:00 AM¥1,000–2,000

Shirangana

It may be surprising for customers at this sit-in teppanyaki joint to learn that it only opened in 2021: it looks like it has been here a lot longer, and the food is so tasty that you’d find it hard to imagine Nichome would have gone so long without it.

A small joint on the corner of an alley of LGBTQ+ bars, including some of the best known lesbian bars, Shirangana has a stylish, retro ‘shack’ kind of aesthetic, and serves up griddle-cooked comfort foods, both filling and delicious. Customers rave about the okonomiyaki (a Japanese savory pancake) and tonpeiyaki (a pork and cabbage omelette), as well as the refreshing drinks. Striving to be a gender-free safe space for everyone, this is a fun, friendly casual eating and drinking shop for anyone looking to start or finish their night.

Rainbow Burritos Doumo

“I want customers to feel like they’re home when they’re here,” says the woman at the counter, explaining the way that Rainbow Burritos Doumo has made its small space into a must-visit spot for LGBTQ+ visitors to Nichome. Located on the third floor, the spot is known for its welcoming attitudes towards any and all comers, but prides itself on its history as a Mexican eatery with history in Tokyo’s gayborhood.

Before settling in its current location, it was a pop-up burrito stall that used to pitch up next to Bar Gold Finger. Finding immediate support and success, it found a permanent home with a small floor space that promotes meeting new people and starting conversations, as well as enjoying the delicious burritos. The frozen margarita is a delicious specialty that the staff recommends for newcomers and regulars alike.

Best Picks by Locals

Donden

Sitting yards away from many of the major gay bars in Nichome, this izakaya is the perfect place to share a few dishes with friends and maybe have a quick tipple before heading off for some more serious drinking, as well as being a terrific spot for a dinner or date night. Its friendly staff and casual atmosphere make for a warm welcome.

Donden has indoor seating at Japanese-style tables for larger groups, as well as seats outside, that are perfect for a summer evening. It offers a wide range of food, with the karaage being particularly tasty, and is proud to serve fish freshly bought from the market that day for its sashimi. It’s signature dish is the motsunabe, a hotpot made with various meats and offal, perfectly seasoned to make a filling treat. If you’re staying here, rather than hitting the bars, it also has an all-you-can-drink offer available.

Mr.Tokyo BURGER’S Cafe

Just a hop, a step, and a jump from Shinjuku Sanchome Station, this specialty burger restaurant is the place to go for hearty, tasty burgers of all different kinds. There is a wide variety of burgers on offer, from a classic cheddar cheeseburger to an avocado mozzarella burger, to a jalapeño burger. It also has fish and chicken burgers, as well as a bread-free “Mr. Plate” for anyone who wants to watch their carb intake.

The sides include salads and onion rings, as well as crunchy fries. The garlic fries in particular are excellent, though the standard fries that are cut into a curious V-shape are also superb. The drinks menu has a wide variety of alcoholic and soft drinks, including Dr. Pepper, a relative rarity in Japan. Mr.Tokyo BURGER’S Cafe also has a very affordable lunch menu, which discounts drinks to ¥110 each, and burgers all come with fries and a salad. A JGG favorite, you haven’t eaten in Nichome if you haven’t eaten at Mr.Tokyo!

Mr.Tokyo BURGER’S cafe

Shinjuku Ni-ChomeTokyo11:00 AM - 9:00 PM¥1,000 - ¥2,000

Shinjuku Buan

Looking to make a good first impression? This is the place to go. Just down the road from Tokyo’s hottest gay bars, this restaurant opened in 2018 with the goal of giving a modern yet exclusively Japanese experience.

“Our concept is essentially: Japanese wine, paired with delicious food,” one of the staff informed me. Indeed, while the lovely interior may remind one a little of a homely French restaurant, it is dedicated to showing off the range and delights of domestic wine – and we don’t mean sake. Although Japan is not famous for its wineries, there are several that have popped up over the last few decades, and Shinjuku Buan has painstakingly cultivated a selection to go with its menu of Japanese delicacies. Definitely a top lick to impress a date.

Shinjuku Buan

Shinjuku Ni-ChomeTokyoWeekdays: 11:30AM - 2:30PM, 6:00PM - 11:30PM, Weekends: 11:30AM - 2:30PM, 5:30PM - 11:30PM¥1,000 - ¥2,000

Want Seconds?

Now you’re ready to get your grub on in Tokyo’s top gay district, whether you want a fancy supper or a fast snack. But these aren’t the only places there are out there. There are plenty of places and cuisines to sample in Nichome, so if you want to sample some more, you should make room for another course in Shinjuku’s most happening district.

Check out this article for more info.

Explore Shinjuku Nichome: Tokyo’s Premier Gay District Guide

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Tobias has been working as an editor and a writer for over ten years, getting his start at a legal publisher in London before moving to Tokyo in 2019. Since moving to Japan’s capital, he has written or edited articles on a wide variety of subjects, including cars, medicine, video games, the economy, wine, education and travel. He even reviewed the first CBD beer to be launched in Japan! In his spare time, he loves watching movies, playing video games, going to karaoke, and visiting his local sento public bath. His favorite Pokémon is Shinx, and his favorite food is curry. He never shuts up about how the 2008 Financial Crisis influenced everything in our modern world.

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