The LGBTQ+ community is the only space where “life’s a drag” is a good thing. It’s hard to go one night in Nichome without seeing queens (and sometimes kings) dressed up to the nines, strutting their stuff and owning the streets — and it’s hard not to want to try it out.
For anyone looking to try drag for the first time, it can be a little daunting: I mean, where do you even begin? How can you beat your face the way they do it? What do you need? That’s what we’re here for! Enjoy our beginner’s guide to drag make-up.
What Is Drag Makeup?
Drag makeup, like much of drag, is made up of exaggeration and deliberately doing… a lot. Originally done to hide what could be considered traditionally masculine features behind a thick layer of paint, as well as making it easier to demonstrate facial expressions for anyone in the back during a show.
Over time, these performance necessities became an essential part of what it means to perform in drag, and so certain things became almost codified into the looks, the performance, the way to give realness. Many of the techniques born in drag have since made their way into the realm of make-up for cis women too.
Building Your First Drag Makeup Kit
Before you can even think about cooking, though, you’ll need to get all the basics down.
Face Essentials
Primer is often recommended, but this is one that, if you’re in a hurry, or you just don’t feel like it, you can skip. Like any work of architectural genius, however, you cannot go without foundation. Matte finish foundations tend to combat oily skin, but are fine for anyone, and dries easily without breakage.
Next, you’ll want concealer, to mask any imperfections on your skin (not that you’re imperfect in any way, of course!), as well as color correction, in the event that you’re looking a little flushed, or perhaps a little pale. After this, you’ll also need contour to highlight your cheekbones, as well as rouge or blush to add the perfect color to your face.
Eyes and Brows
The eyes are the windows to the soul, so let’s make yours stained glass! Eyeshadow is a major part of drag makeup, but sadly, these will almost definitely need to be purchased from specialist makeup stores. Unlike mascara, you won’t be able to get away with getting these from FamilyMart.
For eyebrows, you’ll need a special eyebrow glue to cover (or “block”) them, and use a brow pencil to draw over covered brows and make a highly stylized look. High arched pencil brows are a classic look.
Lips
The main one here, of course, is lipstick. While ruby red is an obvious classic, different colors give different vibes, so go with whatever you like best. You can also use pencils to enhance the look.
How to Do Drag Makeup: Step-by-Step
Now we have the ingredients, let’s get in the kitchen.
1. Prep Your Face and Block Brows
Exactly what it sounds like: make sure you’ve exfoliated and moisturized your face. Use primer if you have it and want to do so. Next, block your brows using the glue, and once it has dried, apply your foundation.
2. Contour
Next, use your contour and brush to highlight your cheekbones, chin, and add some flavor to your hairline as you care to.
3. Eyes
As mentioned, your eyes can be considered the star of the show. Now is your time to use your eyeshadow and pencils for maximum effectiveness.
4. Lips
Choose the lipstick with the best color and texture for you, apply, and touch up using pencils.
5. Bake and Set
This part is rather important: since you’ll probably be dancing, moving, laughing, and using your face in all sorts of ways, you’ll need to “bake”, to set your makeup in place. This is where you put a translucent powder on your face (especially the areas that are tacky or even wet) and let your natural body heat warm your face for approximately five minutes.
6. Finishing Touches
Adding acrylic nails, fake lashes, and hair spray (or, even better, an outrageous wig) can really bring your look together.
Skincare After Drag Makeup
After you’ve finished for the night and it’s time to take off your face, it’s a good idea to use not just makeup remover, but also clean your face with miceller water. This is good for all kinds of skin, but especially for those with an oily epidermis, it helps stave off zits and other problems that can come with wearing thick makeup all night.
Where to Buy Drag Makeup in Japan
There are no drag queen or drag king exclusive brick and mortar stores in Japan to our awareness. However, online retailer Rakuten has its own Drag Queen Makeup Shop section, delivering all over Japan.
For anyone looking for real expertise and experience — invaluable for first-timers — stores like Skingarden, Einz & Tulpe, and APii Cosmetics in Tokyo can be great resources.
Now, queen, it’s time for you to slay! You’ll be gagging, serving fish realness, and vogueing the house down before you know it!
