Some vacations are pure hell — but this time it’s on purpose. Beppu, on the southern island of Kyushu, is a hot spring town unlike almost any other. The volcanism here is so intense that steam can even be seen rising from the ground on the city streets thanks to the large number of thermal vents. But the scenery isn’t the only devilishly delightful appeal of this subtropical city for LGBTQ+ visitors.
The Seven Hells
The hot springs are the main draw of Beppu, but even for those of us who like it hot, there are some limits — and they’re definitely exceeded by the city’s signature Hells of Beppu hot springs. These waters are too dangerous for people to bathe in: whether they be too hot, frequent eruptions, or the presence of dangerous aquatic life — including piranhas and crocodiles.You can, however, boil some eggs for a tasty snack at the Sea Hell bath, where the water reaches temperatures of 98 degrees Celcius.
Beppu Hotsprings
Outside of the Hells, though, there are a huge number of hot spring baths that visitors can enjoy. Indeed, you’re so spoiled for choice that it would be impossible to sample them all unless you are a Beppu resident: there are over 150 different baths in the city. You can even get a stamp card to receive proof of which of the baths you have visited, with those who can collect a minimum of 88 being awarded the title, “onsen meijin,” or “onsen master.”
Oita Fragrance Museum
Something of a hidden gem, this museum explores and displays perfumes, colognes, and other fragrances throughout the ages. In addition to having vintage scents for visitors to experience, it also has a collection of antique bottles, as well as the raw ingredients, so that you can sample and experience the differences between the individual smell and the combination that becomes the final product.
As if that weren’t enough, the museum also offers an extremely popular perfume making experience. Visitors rave that it makes what seems to be a complex process easy to understand, snd also has a booklet in English to help anyone who cannot speak Japanese.
Takasakiyama Natural Zoological Garden
This spot is a joy to visit, and you’ll know why as soon as you hear its unofficial nickname: The Monkey Park. Founded in 1952 by luring Japanese macaques to Takasakiyama mountain with sweet potatoes to stop them bothering nearby farmers, it was quickly realized that it would be a popular and unique attraction for tourists.
Although visitors are discouraged from touching, feeding, or teasing the monkeys, there are no physical barriers between the primates and guests to the park. Nevertheless, the monkeys are accustomed to human presence, and so are known to wander near to humans without fear. The zookeepers are also very knowledgeable about these monkeys in particular and Japanese macaques in general, and so can provide a great deal of insight into these animals and their behaviors — in the case of these monkeys, even their personalities!
Bars and Restaurants
Of course, Beppu has a number of excellent bars and restaurants in which to while away an evening. It is especially well-known for it’s “jigokumushi,” food cooked by steaming it with natural hot spring water. Thanks to its unique cooking method, jigokumushi has been associated with health benefits, and many eateries will allow you to choose your own ingredients and cook them yourself, like a steam version of shabu-shabu. Mushicharou is a small restaurant that enjoys a great reputation for its excellent cuisine.
For those looking for something to drink, while Beppu doesn’t have a population size sufficient to support a gayborhood, there are plenty of accepting bars for you to go to for a tipple. Beppu Social Bar is probably the best known, and it enjoys a reputation as a welcoming place for locals and tourists alike. It has DJs on weekends, and also has a ping-pong tab;le that can be used for beer pong games! The perfect place to unwind after a long day’s walk around Beppu’s Hells.
In Summary
When John Milton spoke of “making a heaven of hell” in Paradise Lost, he didn’t have Beppu in mind, but it is perhaps the most perfect distillation of this feeling. With boiling waters surrounding you on all sides, including several literal “hells,” trips to this onsen town have been beloved by LGBTQ+ people for decades, and that doesn’t seem to be in danger of changing any time soon.
